Abstract |
Military costumes have long had a strong influence on fashion design. The purpose of this study is to analyze the design and identify the characteristics of military costumes in the Joseon dynasty to adapt these for Korean fashion design. For this reason, documentary records, paintings and relics were used as research material.
Armor design provided increased motional flexibility through slits and the arrangement of rivets was symbolic. Decorations included images like dragons and the phoenix, and were developed based on five-elements color. Gunbok was active wear because of its various slits and variable design. It was multipurpose functional clothing, pursued through decorative patterns and the five-elements colors of fabric. Yungbok secured an activity space via skirt pleats, and featured a variable design with detachable sleeves. The hat was gorgeously decorative thanks to its material and ornaments. Clothes with a squared neckline or a shorter back had diverse designs and were showy items.
The analysis of the formative characteristics is as follows: First, structural activity, an indispensable condition, is the structure provided for enhancing the activity. Second, variable functionality is the characteristic of providing different functions to change the type and purpose. Third, decorative aesthetics aim to increase the external grandeur of military generals and soldiers. Fourth, social symbolism was found in the costume`s expression of the regiment through the five-elements colors, and the arrangement of rivets, which had shamanistic symbolism. |
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Key Words |
조선시대, 군사복식, 한국적 패션 디자인, Joseon Dynasty, military costume, Korean fashion design |
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