| Abstract |
| The study aims to examine how social and cultural backgrounds affected jewelry amid changes in the early modern society, relationships between costume and jewelry and the chronological characteristics of jewelry. Toward these ends, fashion plate, illustration and previous studies have been examined. Right after the French Revolution, only patriotic jewelry was allowed, and as its form was simplified until early 19th century, the use of jewelry was reduced. As pompous jewels that combine the mode of the 18th century with classical taste were revived in early 19th century, tiara consisting of diamonds and cameos gained popularity. Sentimental jewelry became popular in 1820s through 1830s, and as many people adopted ear-covering hair style, earrings were not worn, which resulted in reducing the use of jewelry in 1840s. In particular, mourning jewelry of jet and hair jewelry became popular under the influence of Queen Victoria in 1860s. In the era of Arts Nouveau, as emphasis was placed on color of jewelry rather than its value, platinum and gemstone were favored, and they were characterized by plique-a-jour enamel. In addition, a pearl chocker of dog collar and garland style enjoyed popularity. Sociocultual changes influenced jewelry as well as clothes, and in some cases, jewelry was more sensitively influenced than costume depending on economic conditions. In addition to costume style, jewelry was greatly influenced by hair style. |
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| Key Words |
| Jewelry, Formative Characteristics, Early Modern |
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