| abstract |
| Background Amid the rapid change in fashion stream, it is a must to build up the unique fashion world. This study intends to draw expression characteristics from Rick Owens' works by analyzing fashion collections in which his aesthetic differentiation outstands.
Methods First, literature review was practiced regarding his history and art world. Second, empirical study was done for analysis of collections from 2011 S/S to 2018 S/S. This study looked into the formative aspect including theme by the season, the collection place, and the stage. Third, presentation characteristics were picked up by comprehensive assessment of fashion philosophy as designer and analytic results in collections.
Result Collection analysis resulted in thin and long straight an d A-line in general. However, cocoon silhouette and atypical silhouette were also added in some seasons, featuring the arc hitectural beauty. Especially, abstractively formative beauty w as accented by using some techniques such as structural cutt ing and drape, layered style, and binding. In color, such color s were adopted as achromatic color series, or applied arrang ement like tone-in-tone and tone-on-tone. Pattern was exclu ded and conversely, form, color, and color were much highlig hted. Based on leather, cotton, suede, wool, and jersey as ma terial, the contrast of texture with material mix-and-match a nd the visual and feel surface effect were stressed. Places u sed for collection were mainly the space exposed to building interior or pipe line, not to mention the rough concrete pole. This provides an understanding that Rick Owens fashion colle ction is characterized as reflection of brutalism aesthetics, ex tension of minimalism, and re-creation of Gothic emotion.
Conclusion Rick Owens has made designer's identity on his o wn by seeing the fashion through diverse points beyond the conventional fashion boundary. |
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| Key Words |
| 브루탈리즘, 미니멀리즘, 고딕 감성, Brutalism, Minimalism, Gothic Emotion |
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