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DOI :     Journal Korea Society of Visual Design Forum , Vol.46, No.0, 27 ~ 37, 2015
Title
Intertextuality in Contemporary Men`s Wear Collections - With a Focus on Paris, Milan and New york Collection from 2010 A/W~2012 S/S -
최동은 Choi Dong Eun , 권혜숙 Kwon Hae Sook
abstract
The purpose of this study is to analyze design pattern and feature used for contemporary men`s wear, focused on designs appeared in fashion collection. The content analysis was performed for empirical test to analyze inter-textual design feature, around 843 pictures selected based on 5 design features out of 7,221 pictures collected mainly from Paris, Milan, and New York collection published in the『GAP Press Men』, a magazine, for A/W season, 2010 through S/S season, 2012. The results of this study are as follows ; First, for inter-textual design, the Paris collection was highest, followed by Milan, New York. Second, features and frequency of inter-textual design are as follows; It was analyzed that the features of inter-textual design were 5 types such as gender neutralization, style mixture, item redundancy, order confusion, and length confusion. The results of design feature analysis from this study are as follows; gender neutralization is divided into wearing of strong male image and of femininity emphasis. Style mixture appeared in crossed use of items of business suits and those of casual wears, which seems a free coordination phenomenon. Item redundancy appearing in the male clothes tended to enhance individuality through simple redundancy of the same items and redundancy of different clothes, which tendency is in common with female clothes. In the mean time, order confusion is a wearing style which looks natural and can enhance individuality of the wearers although it is out of the normal order of wearing and it can be classified into order confusion in casual wear and order confusion in business wear. Though it is a natural wearing style in women`s clothes, length confusion is a violation of length order in men`s clothes, which shows the individuality of the wearer. Although these characteristics appear in women`s clothes, we can see that there are differences in the method of expression. Following studies need to segmentalize men`s clothes in more detail just like the styles of women`s clothes and analyzed them by era, not by year.
Key Words
남성복, 해체주의, 상호텍스트성, Men`s wear, De-construction, Intertextuality
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